Road trip the Coromandel Peninsula: A local’s guide to the best places to go and things to do
My home region has beautiful beaches and great walks to discover
Little Bay, in the far north of the Coromandel
I grew up on a Coromandel Peninsula dairy farm 10 minutes from Pauanui Beach.
Summer holidays meant swimming in the river that flows out of the Coromandel ranges, and roaming barefoot around tiny beach towns.
The Te Whanganui-o-Hei/Cathedral Cove Marine Reserve
It took me a while to appreciate how beautiful the Coromandel is; probably around a decade. That’s about how much time I spent travelling the world, looking for perfect waves to surf, clear rivers to swim in, and beaches away from crowds.
It wasn’t until I came back home as an adult that I realised all of these things — and many more — are right here in the Coromandel.
Pauanui Beach, right down the road from where I grew up
Once a hippie haven, the Coromandel Peninsula these days is an enclave for the wealthy, with huge holiday homes of glass and steel lining most beachfronts. There are still remnants of the quirky characters that used to shape the Coromandel, though — there are still locals living off grid, and a little train running through the bush, and if you go far enough north there’s nothing but gravel roads and campgrounds.
Below, I have outlined a few of my favourite things to do in the Coromandel, if you were driving from Thames up the West Coast to Coromandel town, then down the other side of the peninsula via Whitianga and Hahei.
This is my local’s guide to the Coromandel.
First, some beautiful places to stay in the Coromandel
Because it is well worth planning your trip around these places to stay.
FEATURED STAY
Wairua Rainforest River Retreat
An exceptional place to stay, I really can’t recommend it highly enough. Tucked away in the forest, with a forest bath, a hot tub under the stars, and a fire pit, Wairua feels like an exclusive little piece of paradise.
FEATURED STAY
Buffalo Lodge
A serene lodge in regenerating native bush just north of Coromandel town.
Coromandel Peninsula Road trip routes
On the road south of Waikawau Bay
You can visit the Coromandel as part of a longer North Island road trip, or as a destination in itself (it makes a great weekend escape from Auckland).
You could easily spend a week road tripping around the Peninsula, if you go as far north as Fletcher Bay. But, if you stick to the main loop road, you can also visit most sights in one day and two nights.
A flowering pohutukawa tree by Otama Bay
The ‘classic’ Coromandel road trip route would be to start in Thames and drive up the west coast to Coromandel Town. After a quick pit stop, carry on to Kuaotunu, then Whitianga. Stop for the night in or around Hahei, so you can explore the beaches along that stretch of coastline the following day.
For a longer, more adventurous trip, head north from Coromandel Town. Make your way up to Fletcher’s Bay and walk the Coromandel Coastal Walkway, before coming back down and making your way past Waikawau Bay, then back to Coromandel township and onto the main highway loop.
This latter option is ideal for campervan trips, as accommodation options are few and far between once you hit those gravel roads in the north of the peninsula. Campgrounds, on the other hand, are plentiful and wonderful.
From Thames to Coromandel Town
Thames is an old gold mining town, now a hub for the wider farming region. This is the town where I went to high school; for me it always has that feeling of a t-shirt you’ve owned for a decade, comfortable and familiar, but nothing special and if anything, a little embarrassing.
Heading up the coast, Waiomu Beach Cafe is worth a stop.
Ride the perfectly unique Driving Creek Railway through native bush
One of the absolute best things to do in the Coromandel is take the Driving Creek Railway, a tiny mountain train that trundles through native bush to incredible views.
The railway was originally built by Barry Brickell, a potter who wanted to use the rails to transport wood, clay and sculptures up and down the hillside to his kiln, which was deep in the bush to avoid smoking out his neighbours.
It quickly became popular with tourists and has been chugging up and down the hill since the early 80s.
I have very fond childhood memories of the train and even now as an adult I love it. There’s nothing else like it in New Zealand.
Getting further off the beaten track: Heading north from Coromandel Town
The road looping around the Coromandel is just the beginning. If you have more time, or you like going to places that feel like the end of the world, I recommend heading north from Coromandel town.
That road will take you up through Colville and onwards, on a narrow, gravel road that twists and turns along the coast.
It’s not for the faint of heart, but it’s a stunning drive. Mostly, there’s just a selection of remote campsites up north, so it’s ideal if you’re in a campervan, or keen for a camping trip.
Waikawau Bay
Sunrise at Waikawau Bay
North of Coromandel Town is where things start to get more off the beaten track; or off the sealed road, to be precise. Head to Waikawau Bay to discover the largest DOC campsite in New Zealand, and another sheltered bay good for surfing and swimming.
Just over the hill at the south end of Waikawau Bay is Little Bay, spot that locals have done a great job of keeping secret. There are a few spots in the carpark for self-contained campervans to stay overnight.
For a scenic loop, head to Waikawau via Colville, then back down to Coromandel Town through Kennedy Bay. Stop at the Tokatea Hill Lookout for views out across both sides of the peninsula.
Port Jackson and Fletcher Bay
If you don’t mind manoeuvring a car along gravel roads with sheer drop-offs, DOC campsites at Port Jackson and Fletcher Bay will take you properly off the grid.
Make one last pit stop in Colville before following pohutukawa fringed roads as they taper down to narrow gravel ribbons bordered by wind-stunted harakeke.
You’ll be rewarded for making the journey with a sense of isolation and true adventure. Port Jackson Campsite is set on the very tip of the peninsula, with a vast beach and views of Great Barrier Island.
Neighbouring Fletcher Bay Campground is the starting point for the Coromandel Coastal Track, a highlight of the peninsula that has marvellous views of the craggy coastline, as well as dense bush with the occasional kaka wheeling above the canopy.
New Chums Beach
This is a legendary spot, incredibly beautiful but you need to walk for 20 minutes over a hill to get there.
Stop to eat at Luke’s Kitchen in Kuaotunu
Photo via Luke’s Kitchen
If the essence of the Coromandel could be distilled into one spot, it would look a lot like Luke’s Kitchen in Kuaotunu.
A truly local hub, Luke’s is a homey cafe, art gallery, shop full of Coromandel-made goods, and woodfired pizza restaurant all in one. Between the beach views, laid back vibe and frequent live music, this is one of the best stops along State Highway 25 for a meal and coffee.
Detour to the sublime Opito Bay
From Kuaotunu and Luke’s Kitchen, head up and over a hill over the true-to-Coromandel-type (steep, twisty, and gravel in patches) hill to Opito Bay. The long scythe of honey-coloured sand is backed by golden hills and contrasts delightfully with the bright blue water.
From the southern end of the beach, climb the steps to reach the top of an old Māori pa — defensive ditches are still visible — and enjoy views back across the bay.
Soak in geothermal water at the Lost Spring in Whitianga
The Lost Spring is one of the Coromandel’s loveliest hidden gems.
I would go so far as to say these are some of the best geothermal hot pools in the whole of New Zealand.
The pools are surrounded by tropical gardens that feel like a jungle. Adding to the feeling of a tropical escape is that fact that you can order pina coladas, and they will bring them to you in the pool — you just swim up to collect them.
Cathedral Cove (and its quieter sister bay)
By far the most popular destination on the Coromandel Peninsula is Cathedral Cove.
The nearest town is Hahei, and Hahei Beach itself is sublime. But, a little further along the coast, reached only by walking, kayaking, or a water taxi, Cathedral Cove dials up the beauty even further.
A walking track leads along the coast to the beach, which is framed by pale limestone and features a large stone archway across part of the beach. Between the rock formations and the dazzling blue water, Cathedral Cove looks like a scene from a magazine.
That means it attracts crowds aplenty, so it’s not a place to go if you’re seeking solitude.
CATHEDRAL COVE BOAT TOURS
There are a number of boat tours departing from Whitianga and touring along the Cathedral Cove coastline.
Of these, I highly recommend choosing Cave Cruzer (book direct / on Get Your Guide), a one-man show run by Brian, who has a deadpan sense of humour and a love for throttling his boat into spins.
The boat tours all follow a similar route, so it’s Brian’s personality that makes his tour stand out (and some of the others, like the Glass Bottom Boat, feed the fish in the marine reserve. I don’t agree with that approach, so wouldn’t recommend joining their tours).
If you would prefer to leave from Hahei, the zippy little Hahei Explorer is also a great option.
All of the boats will whisk you around the marine reserve.
You should note, though, that none of the boat tours land at Cathedral Cove. To reach the beach, you’ll need to get a water taxi.
The coastline near Cathedral Cove
If you want to visit a beach that is almost as beautiful as Cathedral Cove, but has nowhere near the vast numbers of visitors the more famous spot gets, check out Lonely Bay.
Lonely Bay
It’s only a short descent down some steps to the bay, then when you’re there you feel tucked away from the world.
Hot Water Beach
I’m throwing Hot Water Beach in here for the pure novelty of being able to dig your own little hot pool on a beach.
Thanks to geothermal activity in one specific spot on this beach, at low tide (and two hours either side) you can take a shovel and make a shallow pool to lie in. The water that bubbles up from underneath is hot, sometimes scalding.
Opoutere Beach
Set a few kilometres off State Highway 25, and filtered from the road by a tall stand of pines, Opoutere Beach is resolutely remote. It’s highly likely that you’ll find yourself sharing the long stretch of white sand with only oystercatchers and endangered dotterels, which breed on the Wharekawa sand spit at the north of the beach.
As you walk around the estuary, you might also hear the screech of kaka and spot the parrots overhead.
Hike the Pinnacles
The most famous hike on the peninsula is the Pinnacles walk, a climb up to a 360 panorama view from a rocky crag.
It’s a 3 hour hike up, so you can get up and down in a day quite easily (although it is a steep climb in places).
It’s even better at sunrise and sunset — I have stayed overnight at the large DOC hut at the top to make the most of both. The hut is exceptionally well equipped (with showers, lights, cooking equipment) but also popular with school groups, so you could be sharing it with 40 odd youngsters.
Just note that it’s a 30 minute drive from Thames (and the main road) down a mostly gravel road to get to the start of the track.
Thank you for reading
You being here is what makes my life as a travel writer possible, so thank you. I hope this has been helpful and you have come away with a better idea of where to stop on a Coromandel road trip.
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AUTHOR BIO
I’m a freelance travel writer from New Zealand with bylines in National Geographic Travel, Conde Nast Traveler, Travel + Leisure and more.
I’ve travelled up and down beautiful Aotearoa and I love sharing my recommendations for the best places to visit in New Zealand.
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