What to do in Queenstown: A guide for lovers of the outdoors

My guide to the best things to do in Queenstown.

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Lake Wakatipu is a finger lake, a single, elongated trench gauged out of the ground by glaciers that moved through these mountains millenia ago.

Depending on which way you hold your map, the lake is shaped like a dog leg, or a lightening bolt, or a sleeping giant with his legs drawn up; the latter is true according to Maori legend, and the giant’s inhales and exhales are what causes the mysterious seiche, or standing wave that causes the water to spontaneously rise and fall by about 10 centimetres every 25 minutes or so.

At 380 metres deep – sinking deeper even than sea level – no one knows what lies on the bottom. There may well be a sleeping giant.

Lying at the eastern crook of the lake, Queenstown has long been seen as rich, but not always because of the bounty of beauty. Gold flows in the rivers around Queenstown, nuggets enviable enough to drive a mining boom in the 1860s.

After a decade or two, the miners were all gone, and replaced by farmers, who mostly had the run of the place until around 1965, when the Shotover Jet started zipping up and down the Shotover Canyon.

Then, in the late 1980s, the first commercial bungy jump opened on the Kawerau Bridge. Queenstown never looked back.

Since then, the town has unabashedly morphed into a playground for people looking to jump, fall, swing, or dive off things.

Wander down Shotover Street, through the small town centre, and you’ll pass signs advertising jet boating, parachuting, off road adventures, packrafting, all before you’ve gone more than 50 metres. Many of these Queenstown activities purport to be some kind of superlative – the highest bungy jump in New Zealand, the biggest rope swing, the longest commercially rafted rapid.

If, like me, you’re not interested in flinging yourself off things, this side of Queenstown can feel overwrought and overcommercial. Fortunately, there are many things to do in Queenstown beyond high octane adventure activities.


My Queenstown highlights

A view of Queenstown and Lake Wakatipu from high on Ben Lomond

The view from the top of Ben Lomond

Narrowing down your options is often the hardest part of visiting Queenstown, so if you just want to know what my top five activities would be, this is what makes the list:


 

Cruising Lake Wakatipu on the TSS Earnslaw

I did not expect to love the TSS Earnslaw.

The historic steam boat chugs into the harbour by the lakefront several times a day, announcing her presence with loud blasts and clouds of coal smoke. At full speed, the boat burns one tonne of coal an hour.

The old lady of the lake was launched in 1912, the same year as the Titanic, and she’s still going strong, powered in the same way as she was more than 100 years ago.

That coal is shovelled into her guts by hand, by men in coal streaked overalls.

I took the 5pm cruise and we were gliding across the lake in the golden light of the late afternoon sun.

I also opted for the gourmet BBQ option at Walter Peak; if you have the time, do this. The food was superb, even as a vegetarian.

Better than dinner, though, was the farm show that is also included if you disembark at Walter Peak. There is a sheep shearing demonstration, and then a sheep dog show, which is easily the highlight of the whole experience.


Hiking near Queenstown

Queenstown is a jumping off point for some of the South Island’s best hiking trails; but generally speaking, tracks are more than an hour’s drive from the town.

For day hikes, your best bet is to either tackle Ben Lomond, or head towards Glenorchy and Mount Aspiring National Park.

 

A very quick guide to hiking in New Zealand

  • The biggest dangers hiking in the South Island are the weather, tricky terrain causing you to fall, and river crossings. Avoid these risks by checking the weather forecast and only heading out if it’s clear, packing appropriate clothing, and sticking to trails. The New Zealand Mountain Safety Council is an excellent resource for outdoor safety and education.

  • I use NIWA to check national park forecasts, paying particular attention to the cloud level (as this is the best indicator of views).

  • Don’t expect to have mobile reception in the national parks. If you want an extra layer of security on longer or overnight walks, hire a personal locator beacon from DOC visitor centres or Macpac stores. It’s also good practice to register your intentions with someone, and let them know once you are safely out of the bush.

  • AllTrails is very useful for tracking where you are (tracks are usually well marked, but I still like to keep an eye on progress).

  • For day hikes, you’ll need a day pack with enough water, snacks, extra layers, sunscreen and insect repellent.

  • Trail running shoes are enough to handle most tracks.

  • There are no dangerous animals in New Zealand, either of the large or small and biting variety. The worst you’re likely to encounter are sandflies, little biting flies that love exposed ankles.

 

Bob’s Cove

📍Bob’s Cove trailhead

Highlights of this walk are that it’s short (around 1 hour return; it passes by a pretty jetty; and it climbs to an equally pretty lookout point. The trail does carry on to Twelve Mile Delta, but most people walk this as an out and back trail, descending the same way.

This is a popular walk, so the carpark can get very busy in summer – if you’re planning to extend the walk to Twelve Mile Delta, consider parking at that end to avoid the struggle to find a park at Bob’s Cove.

⏱️ 1 hour return


Ben Lomond

📍Google Maps

Ben Lomond is the most accessible of the peaks towering around Queenstown. The return hike to the summit can take between five and eight hours; if you have the time and the fitness, this is the best trail in the area. The extraordinary views from the summit encompass Lake Wakatipu, the Remarkables mountain range, and the peaks of Mount Aspiring National Park.

The track is well marked, but climbs into alpine terrain. Take a day pack with food, water, and warm layers for when you pause for breaks or at the summit.

The hike starts from the township, via the Tiki Trail, which climbs a steep hillside to Bob’s Peak (the location of the Skyline luge complex). To shave off some time and effort – and to be frank, the least interesting part of the trail – you can catch a ride on the gondola. From Bob’s Peak, the route is clearly marked, setting off at a much more agreeable elevation (although it’s still a steady climb).

After around one and a half hours, you should reach the Ben Lomond saddle. The saddle is a great destination in itself. The views from there are already spectacular. For families, or less keen hikers, this makes a good turnaround point.

If you carry on to the summit, there’s around another hour of walking ahead. Be prepared for the track to get steeper and rougher; although the views ratchet up alongside the difficulty. When you pause to catch your breath, you can admire tussocked hills falling away from you in golden folds, the odd sheep, and glimpses of Lake Wakatipu and Moke Lake.

Reaching the summit is a triumph; the reward 360 degree views of the entire area. You will feel, in many senses of the phrase, on top of the world.


The Routeburn to Routeburn Flats, Routeburn Falls, or Harris Saddle

📍Routeburn Shelter

A view of Routeburn Flats from halfway up towards Routeburn Falls

Harris Saddle is the crescendo of the Routeburn Track. On a clear day, it makes for a very good, but very long day hike. A shorter option is to walk as far as Routeburn Flats Hut (4 hours return) or Routeburn Falls Hut (6 hours return). No matter where you get to on the trail, the Routeburn Track is spectacular enough that this is likely to be the best day hike you do near Queenstown.

From the Routeburn Shelter, 30 minutes beyond Glenorchy on a partially unsealed road, you can set off on the Routeburn track, to see how far your legs are willing to carry you.

Routeburn Flats is an excellent destination for a half day walk. At around two hours from the carpark, on a trail that is largely flat, this option is suitable for a wide range of fitness abilities.

A tent pitched at a grassy campground on the Routeburn Track
A man walks along a rocky path above a lake at Harris Saddle on the Routeburn Track

It’s a stunning walk alongside the glass blue river as well, and the Routeburn Flats area – where you’ll find the first hut on the multi day trek – is an ideal picnic spot. There are mountain and waterfall views, an idyllic river that makes for a bracingly cold dip, and even flush toilets.

If the weather is on your side, and you want to continue, the next stop is Routeburn Falls hut. It’s a steady one hour climb from Routeburn Flats to the Falls hut, but the incline is gradual enough, and the views spectacular enough, that it’s not an unpleasant ascent. The Routeburn Falls hut has beautiful views of the valley below, and a little behind the hut is a stream flowing through a small canyon.

Harris Saddle is another 1-2 hours beyond Routeburn Falls, so check in with how you’re feeling and how much daylight you have left. If you’re up for it, carry on into the alpine basin until you reach the saddle and the stunning, deep blue Lake Harris.


Day trips to Milford Sound

A waterfall cascades down a sheer cliff at Milford Sound
Onboard a boat at Milford Sound

One of the most popular excursions from Queenstown is a day trip to Milford Sound.

It’s a 5-6 hour drive each way; that’s a 10-hour drive for the purpose of taking a 2-hour boat ride. Te Anau makes a better base for visiting Milford, cutting the drive time in half.

But, if you’re short on time and set on seeing Milford Sound from Queenstown, it is possible; I just recommend taking a tour instead of attempting to drive yourself. When setting off on a 13 hour day trip, at the very least you can outsource the driving.

There’s little variation between the plethora of tour operators offering day trips to Milford Sound from Queenstown.

Most leave around the same time, buses trailing each other on the road and stopping at the same points en route at similar times. It’s a beautiful drive to Milford, but you’ll have to be creative with your camera angles if you don’t want your photos to include the crowds.

Out on the water, the boats all follow the same route and the passenger-to-space ratio remains the same regardless of the size of the boat. The cruise company you choose shouldn’t impact your overall experience a great deal.

The good news is that the day trips operate like well-oiled machines, and offer relatively good value, usually between $300-$370 for the day.

Bus tours

Milford Sound in winter

RealNZ has comfortable, glass-ceilinged coaches and operates their own boats on Milford Sound (the Sovereign and the Monarch are the largest, while the Haven is a little more dinky; the Mariner is the most atmospheric, as it’s in the style of a sailing ship. I would choose the Mariner for maximum effect, but in reality I scarcely noticed the differences in the boats, as I have always spent most of my time outside looking at the scenery).

 

Small group tours

Milford Sound

Luxe Tours is an excellent option if you’d prefer to be in a smaller van on the way to the fjord; they will put you onto a RealNZ boat once you arrive.

 

Fly — cruise — fly

You can of course fly to Milford Sound and back.

There’s a small handful of companies flying to Milford Sound, and to be frank there isn’t a great deal of difference between them.

Prices for a fly-cruise-fly hover around $750, with only minor differences between companies (both Glenorchy Air and Air Milford meet Southern Discoveries boats in Milford Sound).

One crucial difference is that Glenorchy Air guarantees a window seat on all of their flights – Air Milford has some aisle seats – and you’re paying for the view, so you might as well get it. Opt for the 9am flight so you meet the earlier cruise in Milford Sound, ahead of the coach tours.

Just be ready for your plans to change; flights are weather dependent, so with Fiordland’s fickle forecast there’s no guarantee you’ll get off the ground.


Cruise Doubtful Sound overnight

Going on an overnight cruise in Doubtful Sound is pure escapism — it’s easily one of the best things I have done in the South Island.

Doubtful Sound is more remote than Milford Sound. There’s no road to the fjord, to reach it you have to take first one boat across Lake Manapouri, then a bus over a gravel road through a mountain pass.

All this means far fewer people, and a vastly different atmosphere.

When you finally climb onboard the ship at Doubtful Sound, you’ll already feel like you’ve been on an adventure. And, there’s unlikely to be another boat to be seen when you set sail.

Looking out the window of The Navigator cruise ship on Doubtful Sound

The views from the dining room onboard The Navigator are spectacular

Kayakers paddle up to a ship on Doubtful Sound

I loved the feeling of being fully immersed in Fiordland — swimming in the inky dark sound, kayaking along the shoreline beneath hanging vines, listening to the bird song ringing out across the water.

THE DETAILS


Go funyakking on the Dart River, in Mount Aspiring National Park

Funyaking in Mt Aspiring National Park

Funyaking in Mt Aspiring National Park

Funyaking in Mt Aspiring National Park

Funyaking in glacial water

A trip up the Dart River in a jet boat, then down again in an inflatable canoe, is one of the best days out you can have from Queenstown.

Dart River Adventures offers the longest jet boat ride in the region, covering around 90 kilometres (56 miles) of water in around two hours. This trip takes you into Mount Aspiring National Park, so as far as scenery goes, it’s hard to beat (although in summer, the river runs a cloudy brown from glacial melt – it’s a brighter blue in winter).

It is a long day, with a lot of time dedicated to gearing up and absorbing safety briefings, but it’s one of the more balanced ways of getting out into the wilds of Mount Aspiring National Park (by which I mean you don’t need to be hugely fit, or skilled, to reach this slice of backcountry; nor does the activity involve a hefty amount of adrenaline).

The glacial blue water of the Rock Burn river, where you’ll stop for lunch on the funyaking trip, is vivid and shimmering. If you’re brave, jump in. The cold and beauty together will leave you breathless.


Visit Central Otago wineries

Mt Rosa vineyard near Queenstown

Light-bodied Pinot Noir is the beloved variety grown from schist stone and fine, silty soils of the Gibbston area near Queenstown — the region is often compared to Burgundy.

And, of course, the wine production that happens here happens against a backdrop of mountainous beauty. A day or half day visiting some of the cellar doors near Queenstown is time well spent.

The cellar doors are too spread out and far from Queenstown to visit without a tour, an electric bike, or another form of transport.

Self drive

My recommendation, if you do want to visit vineyards under your own steam, is to head to Kinross for the tasting (which is so comprehensive it’s hard to follow up) and Mt Rosa to settle in to enjoy the view accompanied with a platter and wine by the glass. And possibly stop by Mora for lunch, one of the days you’re in Queenstown.

It goes without saying that you need a sober driver to explore the vineyards independently, with a vehicle.

Enjoy a winery tour

Although there are a number of different tour companies, there isn’t a huge amount of variation in the service they can provide – most visit some combination of Gibbston Valley, Amisfield, Kinross, Mt Rosa, Mora, and Ayrburn.

The tastings are under the control of the vineyards, so the differences in the tours come down to the commentary offered and the comfort of the transport.

Prices are roughly the same across the board as well, expect to pay between $250-$280 per person for 3-4 wineries.

  • Southern Discoveries has the most unique offering, visiting a selection of boutique wineries (Chard Farm, Brennan Wines, Waitiri Creek, and Nockie’s Palette) which is a refreshing change from the standard line up.

  • Family-owned Queenstown Wine Trail is a great option, with the original wine tour ticking off three of the best; Gibbston Valley, Kinross, and Mt Rosa. This is one of the most affordable options, at $199 for a 5 hour tour.

  • If you want to go beyond the Gibbston sub-region, Appellation Wine Tours covers Cromwell and Bannockburn on their Boutique Wine Tour, which costs $279 per person, including tastings at 4 wineries and a platter lunch.

Wine Hopper Shuttle

If the transport side of things isn’t a huge factor in your decision, you may want to consider the Wine Hopper shuttle (operated by Queenstown Wine Trail).

The bus leaves once a day, at 12pm, but offers a lot of flexibility with which wineries you visit. Going at your own pace, you can discuss your preferred winery stops and pickup locations with your guide – in effect getting a customised tour itinerary.

From $99 per person, for transport only (tasting fees and food are extra once you reach the wineries)

Bike the wineries

Views of the river from along the Gibbston River Wine Trail

Views of the river from along the Gibbston River Wine Trail

The Gibbston River Trail starts from the Kawarau Bridge and covers just under 9 kilometres (5.6 miles) of the valley, following cliffs high above the bright blue ribbon of water.

The trail runs right past the most famous wineries in the area – Gibbston Valley, Mount Edward, Kinross, and Mt Rosa – as well as the Gibbston Tavern and The Church Cellar Door and Cafe.

Around the Basin offers bike and e-bike rental, with options to start from Arrowtown or Queenstown (with a shuttle to the starting point in Arrowtown). Prices from $110 for a full day rental for a standard bike, and $160 for an e-bike.

A former church is converted into a restaurant, with Queenstown's mountains behind

SUNDAYs is a laid back pizza place in a former church

Queenstown itself also has a lot of very good restaurants in town. Most lean heavily into the beef and lamb from Central Otago (steak houses abound) but even as a vegetarian I eat well in Queenstown.

Toast and Oak had the most original menu I tried, and SUNDAYS had the best vibe and pizzas.


Explore Arrowtown

A red telephone box and vintage pharmacy sign on the street in Arrowtown
Old timey facades, one of which reads 'New Orleans Hotel' in Arrowtown

Arrowtown is a gold-rush era village so well preserved you half expect to see muddy-booted prospectors trudging down the street in amongst the tourists.

The main street is a short but sweet parade of original buildings. Although the quaint facades have been kept intact, the buildings now house a range of boutique stores, restaurants and bars.

Step into Black Teal Bay to pick up essential oils made from locally-grown lavendar, or The Gold Shop, for lockets made from flakes of gold.

Black Teal Bay

A few minutes walk from the centre is a partially restored Chinese village, dating back to the 1880s. It provides a glimpse into the often overlooked role of Chinese prospectors in the gold rush.

Arrowtown is ideal for a half day out from Queenstown (it’s a 20 minute drive), or as a quieter place to stay while you explore the surrounding area. There are a number of good places to eat and drink in Arrowtown, plus the crowds thin out significantly later in the day.

Millbrook is a golf resort on the fringe of Arrowtown that is so large it’s almost a separate village. I’m no golfer, but I still enjoyed the rolling grounds and luxury of the rooms.

Strolling into Arrowtown in the morning, I loved getting coffee at Wolf Coffee Roasters; stopping for lunch at Provisions of Arrowtown; and later enjoying dinner at La Rumbla.

A room at Millbrook Resort

FEATURED STAY

Millbrook Resort

A quiet and luxurious place to stay in Arrowtown, away from the hustle of Queenstown.


Take a 4WD tour down the infamous Skipper’s Canyon

Skipper’s Canyon is a deep gorge some 22 kilometres (13 miles) long, carved out of the rugged landscape by the Shotover River. In 1862, prospectors discovered gold in the Shotover River and triggered a gold rush, luring tens of thousands of hopeful miners to the canyon. In their wake came blacksmiths, butchers, teachers; everyone needed to set up rough settlements.

The road was built to make access to the Shotover River easier for miners; prior to the road, there was only a packtrack connecting settlers with the outside world. The gold rush had already boomed and gone bust by the time the road was completed. Today, it still appears much as it did in the 19th century – as little more than a narrow strip of rock hacked into the sides of the gorge walls.

Rugged landscape and a blue river are visible from the Skippers Canyon road

Sheer dropoffs and a narrow width mean this is a road not to be attempted in a rental vehicle; most rental companies explicitly forbid it in their terms.

It’s well worth visiting on a 4WD tour, though. As well as the thrill of rumbling along a precarious road, the jaunt down Skipper’s is a fascinating look into the history of an isolated community that rose during the gold rush.

Highlights are views of the harsh landscape, and the Skippers Suspension Bridge, which at over 91 metres above the river is New Zealand's highest suspension bridge.

Nomad Safaris operates a half-day tour of Skippers Canyon from Queenstown.


Visit Glenorchy

Tiny Glenorchy is a popular destination for a daytrip from Queenstown.

It’s a 45 minute drive alongside Lake Wakatipu, with a stunning viewpoint on the way at Bennetts Bluff. A short track leads to the lookout, from where you can see the lake stretching in both directions, and Mount Earnslaw/Pikirakatahi squatting amongst other peaks.

Glenorchy village is only a handful of streets by the lake; the main drawcard is the red boat shed that stands by the wharf, ‘Glenorchy’ stenciled in block letters along the front. It makes for a good picture, as the Instagram crowd is well aware.

Other than that, Glenorchy is more of a jumping off point than a destination in itself. North of the village is Paradise, which is little more than a horse paddock, but if you’re a fan of Lord of the Rings you’ll recognise some of the spectacular mountain scenery rising around the farmland. The horse paddocks serve their purpose in any case; High Country Horses (rides from $160 for 1 hour) run horse riding treks through the landscapes, including a ‘Ride of the Rings’ trek which follows a cinematic trail through Paradise.

Then there’s the Routeburn track, across a very scenic bridge crossing the braided Dart River and along a gravel road into Mount Aspiring National Park.

Hiking up to Harris Saddle on the Routeburn Track is a full on day walk, but probably the best single hike you can do near Queenstown.


Cycle

The Lake Dunstan Cycle trail

I have to admit, I am not a cyclist.

I did one cycle trail in Queenstown and that was along the Kawarau River, between wineries. It seemed like a fun thing to do, but by the time I was drunkenly pedalling up the hill (okay, slope, but it felt like a hill) toward Mt Rosa, I was well and truly done with cycling.

If you like to explore on two wheels, though, Queenstown is a good place to do it. There are trails that connect Queenstown to Arrowtown along the shores of Lake Wakatipu, trails between the wineries, and further afield, the Lake Dunstan Cycle trail.

The latter is a pretty impressive trail, with all sorts of cantilevered bridges against the cliffs. And it finishes near some wineries in Bannockburn, so that’s a bonus. Explore Glenorchy

Shop

Frank’s Corner - my favourite place to souvenir shop in Queenstown

My favourite place to shop in Queenstown is Frank’s Corner, a lovely little shop that champions New Zealand made products. If Queenstown is one of the last stops on your trip and you’re ready to pick up some souvenirs, I highly recommend a visit.

They sell great merino wool socks — perfect for hikers — as well as lots of local arts and crafts.


Where to stay in Queenstown

  • The Tahuna Pod Hostel is probably the most comfortable hostel in Queenstown, if you’re looking for somewhere quiet, clean, and suitable for ‘older’ travellers. And by that I mean the demographic isn’t 18-24 year olds in Queenstown to party.

  • The other budget friendly place I stayed is Pinewood Lodge, which is nowhere near as rustically beautiful as it sounds. The walls are thin enough you can hear the plumbing creaking, but the set up works for groups. You can get private rooms with shared bathroom and kitchen facilities for around $70 per person, which is reasonable. The shared kitchens are decently equipped.


Where to eat in Queenstown

Get coffee like a local

  • Hustl Cafe in Frankton — if you go for breakfast, I can recommend the Sun Bun with haloumi

  • Queenstown signs — yes, it’s a… sign shop. It’s also a cafe. And a stationary store. The inside is as eclectic as it sounds, but it’s also cosy and cute, with a retro vibe. The coffee is reasonably priced and it’s rarely busy in there, a rarity for Queenstown.

  • The Boatshed Cafe

Drink like a local

  • Gantley’s

  • Searchlight Brewery


Queenstown itineraries

You can easily add Queenstown into these itineraries:


A woman stands in front of a view of Franz Josef glacier in New Zealand

AUTHOR BIO

I’m a freelance travel writer from New Zealand with bylines in National Geographic Travel, Conde Nast Traveler, Travel + Leisure and more.

I’ve travelled up and down beautiful Aotearoa and I love sharing my recommendations for the best places to visit in New Zealand.

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Petrina Darrah

I’m a freelance travel writer from New Zealand with bylines in National Geographic Travel, Conde Nast Traveler, Travel + Leisure and more.

I’ve travelled up and down beautiful Aotearoa and I love sharing my insights into the best places to visit.

If you love good food and good views, you’ve come to the right place. Browse around, and let me give you all my best local recommendations!

https://www.petrinadarrah.com/about
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The best Queenstown wineries for tastings, lunch & views