What to do in Queenstown: A guide for lovers of the outdoors

Apr 1

Queenstown is one of the most popular destinations in New Zealand. So, it’s busy. And leans towards over-commercialisation. But, it’s also beautiful. Here’s my guide to the best things to do, and how to make the most of Tāhuna Queenstown.

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“New Zealand used to have 70 million sheep,” Peter, a Nomad Safaris driver drawled as we inched our way through Queenstown traffic into town.

“Now there’s 20 million. But we’ve replaced them all with road cones.”

Queenstown, as you will quickly see once you arrive in the relatively small town, is overrun with cones.

So much so, locals like to call it ‘Conestown.’

There’s a beer on tap at Searchlight brewery called Conestown in honour of the many bright orange cones that line what feels like every second street.

*The centre of Queenstown - cones and traffic lights set against a mountain backdrop*

On a Saturday or Sunday morning, after a night of revelry, you’re likely to see road cones thrown onto the top of buildings, or onto sculptures, or generally just tossed about in a general spirit of rebellion.

The tangle of traffic in the never-ending roadworks throws into sharp relief how busy Queenstown can get.

It’s a small town, once a little village by a lake, but the adventure activities here — and the abundant natural beauty — mean it now gets many thousands of visitors.

Queenstown is one of the most popular stops on any New Zealand itinerary.

This is where bungy jumps and jet boats were invented, where you can ride the lake in a small submarine painted like a shark, or packraft down canyons, zipline through forests, or go paragliding off the surrounding mountains.

floating down a river near queenstown in a funyak

the colour of a glacial stream in mount aspiring national park

Or, if you’re like me, Queenstown is a convenient base for all the stunning hikes in the region.

I don’t love all the hyper commercial and often gimmicky activities in Queenstown (it’s unlikely I will ever get in a shark submarine). As with the cones, I think rampant overdevelopment and grabs for tourist dollars have diluted a lot of what makes it special.

But I do love the raw nature you can leap into from Queenstown.

So, this is my guide to Queenstown — what to do, where to eat, and where to stay in the busy, beautiful, and often chaotic little adventure town.

My Queenstown highlights

Narrowing down your options is often the hardest part of visiting Queenstown, so if you just want to know what my top five activities would be, this is what makes the list:

Going on an overnight cruise to Doubtful Sound is easily one of the best things to do in Queenstown (and all of New Zealand)

Queenstown serves as the jumping off point for exploring Fiordland National Park.

It’s not exactly close — it’s a steady four hours driving to Milford Sound, without stops — but if you’re short on time, tours leave from Queenstown and can take you into the heart of the park.

Most people opt to visit Milford Sound, but I have finally decided (after visiting several times, and going back and forth in my mind many more) that it’s not worth visiting Milford Sound on a day trip from Queenstown.

It makes for a very long day, and you only get to scratch the surface of the national park.

Ideally you want to head to Te Anau for a couple of nights, to give yourself more time to explore. Even then, you’re contending with the crowds of people drawn to Milford — a boat trip there feels a bit like being on a conveyor belt (I’m sure that’s not everyone’s experience, but it’s what I have felt both times I’ve been. It’s gorgeous but I don’t feel deeply connected to the nature there).

Alternatively, you can go on an overnight cruise to Doubtful Sound, which gives you a little more time in Fiordland, but is still relatively time efficient.

Kayakers paddle up to a ship on Doubtful Sound

I can’t recommend the Doubtful Sound overnight cruise highly enough.

Doubtful Sound is more remote than Milford Sound. There’s no road to the fjord, to reach it you have to take first one boat across Lake Manapouri, then a bus over a gravel road through a mountain pass.

A bus in the Fiordland forest with Doubtful Sound illuminated on a sign at the front — *Taking the bus through the rainforest is a slightly surreal experience*

All this means far fewer people, and a vastly different atmosphere.

Going on an overnight cruise in Doubtful Sound is pure escapism — it’s easily one of the best things I have done in the South Island.

When you finally climb onboard the ship at Doubtful Sound, you’ll already feel like you’ve been on an adventure. And, there’s unlikely to be another boat to be seen when you set sail.

Looking out the window of The Navigator cruise ship on Doubtful Sound — *The views from the dining room onboard The Navigator are spectacular*

I loved the feeling of being fully immersed in Fiordland — swimming in the inky dark sound, kayaking along the shoreline beneath hanging vines, listening to the bird song ringing out across the water.

THE DETAILS

I went on an overnight cruise in Doubtful Sound with RealNZ, and would wholeheartedly recommend the trip.

I left from Queenstown — RealNZ operate buses that can transport you from either Queenstown or Te Anau to Lake Manapouri, where the trip leaves from.

Hike up Ben Lomond

If you’re up for a challenge, the hike to the top of Ben Lomond delivers awesome views for a surprisingly accessible hike.

The track starts more or less from Queenstown proper, but feels much more like a backcountry hike (although it’s well marked all the way to the top).

Take the gondola up to the Skyline precinct (you can hike from the very bottom of the hill, but that part of the hike is not particularly scenic. Just one long slog uphill).

From Skyline, the trail is clearly marked all the way to the summit.

You can just go as far as the Ben Lomond Saddle and you’ll still get incredible views.

Go funyakking on the Dart River, in Mount Aspiring National Park

Go on a jet boat and funyak tour on the Dart River in Glenorchy — this is a full day out from Queenstown, but it’s an awesome way to get out into Mount Aspiring National Park if you don’t want to do an overnight hike (I’ll admit, I prefer the overnight hikes. But this activity is really tops for seeing the park in a gentle way).

Eat and drink your way around Queenstown

If you’re arriving into Queenstown after days on the road, maybe after some long hikes or other adventures, or hell, maybe just with a reason to celebrate, then you can absolutely justify a day of eating, drinking, and otherwise indulging.

Central Otago vineyards are among some of New Zealand’s best (I prefer this wine region to Marlborough, which is probably the most famous wine region in New Zealand).

The arid landscapes produce stellar Pinot Noir, but I’m also very fond of the Rieslings from the region.

The vineyards are also very scenic, located as they are along the Kawerau River.

My personal favourites are Kinross, which is ideal for a tasting (they feature multiple wineries at their cellar door, so with one stop you can sample a wide selection of wines from the area) and Mt Rosa for a laid-back glass of rose and a platter.

Or, if you’re looking for a nice lunch, it’s hard to go past Mora Wines. The romantic garden setting, delicious food, and excellent wines — Mora was flawless.

Queenstown itself also has a lot of very good restaurants in town. Most lean heavily into the beef and lamb from Central Otago (steak houses abound) but even as a vegetarian I eat well in Queenstown.

Toast and Oak had the most original menu I tried, and SUNDAYS had the best vibe and pizzas.

Explore Arrowtown

Arrowtown is more of a village really, a small and picturesque spot about 15 minutes from Queenstown.

It gets way too many visitors for such a small place, and the carpark near the river is almost as big as the centre of town.

Still, it’s a cute town for a stroll, and it’s a good place to get some insight into the gold mining history of Queenstown and Otago.

Stop for lunch at Provisions of Arrowtown.

Visit Glenorchy

Hiking is one of my main hobbies, so I am a bit more enthusiastic about it than a lot of people.

As in, I will happily walk for up to 10 hours a day on a really good day hike. And climbing mountains makes me think of fun, not pain.

The most spectacular hikes around Queenstown (if you really like walking):

Earnslaw Burn — this is best as an overnight camping trip, but you can do it as an epic day mission.
Hike up to Harris Saddle on the Routeburn Track — on a clear day, you’ll get to experience the highlights of the Routeburn. This is a full on day walk, but probably the best single hike you can do near Queenstown.
Hike in to Mid Caples Hut on the Greenstone Caples Track — you won’t get views from up high, but there is the most amazing swimming spot and gorge here.
Gertrude Saddle — I did this as a day trip from Queenstown with friends, and it was a very long but beautiful day. If you can, you might want to stay in Te Anau, or even Milford Sound, before tackling this one.

For more chilled out walks (casual hikers or anyone who wants scenery without committing to a full day of trudging along):

And finally, multi-day hikes for those of you who want to get deeper into the wilderness and spend a few days offline, enjoying the best nature New Zealand has to offer.

The Greenstone Caples Track — this is a really beautiful and relatively accessible multi-day walk.
The Routeburn — it’s hard to beat the spectacular nature of the Routeburn. If there is one overnight hike in New Zealand you really have to do, it’s this one.
The Kepler Track — I’ve done this twice and would do it again.
The Rees Dart — this is a more advanced tramping track, but it’s so worth it if you’re up for a longer (5 day) adventure.

Things to do in Queenstown

Queenstown is a little unusual in New Zealand, in that it serves well as a base for exploring a wide area. Most other stops on your itinerary are typically only for a night or two — you need to keep moving to get to the next destination.

With Queenstown, though, the town is located close (-ish) to Glenorchy and Mount Aspiring National Park, Milford Sound and Fiordland National Park (I’m stretching the definition of close, here) and Central Otago and all its glorious vineyards.

Sure, there are activities you can do within Queenstown itself.

But, you’re more likely to spend your days on trips and missions in the surrounding area.

1. Cruise Lake Wakatipu on the TSS Earnslaw, a coal-powered steamboat (and then tucking into an all you can eat gourmet buffet)

I did not expect to love the TSS Earnslaw.

The historic steam boat chugs into the harbour by the lakefront several times a day, announcing her presence with loud blasts and clouds of coal smoke.

The old lady of the lake was launched in 1912, the same year as the Titanic, and she’s still going strong — fuelled by one tonne of coal for each hour she’s at full speed across the lake.

That coal is shovelled into her guts by hand, by men in coal streaked overalls.

BOOK THE TSS EARNSLAW:

On Get Your Guide
On Viator
Take a look at BookMe — sometimes they have good deals for last minute bookings.

Sit and admire the lake that breathes

*Queenstown lakefront - Destination Queenstown*

Lake Wakatipu breathes.

At least, that’s the Maori explanation for the seiche, or standing wave, that causes the water to spontaneously rise and fall by about 10 centimetres every 25 minutes or so.

Maori legend says that a giant called Matau sleeps at the bottom of the lake, and the wave is caused by his breathing. It might be true — the lake is 380 metres deep, so no one knows what lies on the bottom.

The lakefront in town is a beautiful place for a morning or evening stroll, but if you want somewhere a little more secluded, walk through the Queenstown Gardens over to Timber Trl. There you’ll find a few small beaches.

Frankton Beach is a nice place to swim and watch sunset in the evening. Keep going to Kelvin Heights Golf Course Road, toward the Wakatipu Yacht Club, and you’ll find more small beaches with jetties for swimming or just sitting by the water.

Cycle

I have to admit, I am not a cyclist.

I did one cycle trail in Queenstown and that was along the Kawarau River, between wineries. It seemed like a fun thing to do, but by the time I was drunkenly pedalling up the hill (okay, slope, but it felt like a hill) toward Mt Rosa, I was well and truly done with cycling.

If you like to explore on two wheels, though, Queenstown is a good place to do it. There are trails that connect Queenstown to Arrowtown along the shores of Lake Wakatipu, trails between the wineries, and further afield, the Lake Dunstan Cycle trail.

The latter is a pretty impressive trail, with all sorts of cantilevered bridges against the cliffs. And it finishes near some wineries in Bannockburn, so that’s a bonus. Explore Glenorchy

Shop

My favourite place to shop in Queenstown is Frank’s Corner, a lovely little shop that champions New Zealand made products. If Queenstown is one of the last stops on your trip and you’re ready to pick up some souvenirs, I highly recommend a visit.

They sell great merino wool socks — perfect for hikers — as well as lots of local arts and crafts.

Where to stay in Queenstown

If you have a rental car and plan

Queenstown Central

The Tahuna Pod Hostel is probably the most comfortable hostel in Queenstown, if you’re looking for somewhere quiet, clean, and suitable for ‘older’ travellers. And by that I mean the demographic isn’t 18-24 year olds in Queenstown to party.
The other budget friendly place I stayed is Pinewood Lodge, which is nowhere near as rustically beautiful as it sounds. The walls are thin enough you can hear the plumbing creaking, but the set up works for groups. You can get private rooms with shared bathroom and kitchen facilities for around $70 per person, which is reasonable. The shared kitchens are decently equipped.

Frankton

Frankton is the area around the airport, where you will find strip malls with abundant outdoor stores, large supermarkets, and pretty much everything else you need to furnish a visit to Queenstown.

It’s a very convenient area to stay, as parking is easier (and free), you’re close to amenities, and if you’re planning on leaving town for day trips most days, it is more accessible to transport routes.

Where to eat in Queenstown

Get coffee like a local

Hustl Cafe in Frankton — if you go for breakfast, I can recommend the Sun Bun with haloumi
Queenstown signs — yes, it’s a… sign shop. It’s also a cafe. And a stationary store. The inside is as eclectic as it sounds, but it’s also cosy and cute, with a retro vibe. The coffee is reasonably priced and it’s rarely busy in there, a rarity for Queenstown.
The Boatshed Cafe