Itβs worth visiting New Zealand in winter β this road trip will show you why
Itβs cold and wet and dark, but the winter months in New Zealand can also be beautiful.
Hiking Key Summit in Fiordland in the middle of winter β cold, but beautiful
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It has taken me a long time to fall in love with winter in New Zealand.
For years Iβve skipped the cold season in New Zealand entirely.
My nomadic life means Iβm free to hop on a plane out of the country in May, not returning until November. (Winter in New Zealand is opposite to winter in the Northern Hemisphere. The season lasts from June to August, and the coldest month is typically July.)
Winter trips like this snowy hike in Tongariro National Park changed my mind about winter in New Zealand
Iβm happy to spend the summer months road tripping around New Zealand, camping, hiking, surfing, and generally just being outside. But winter β winter and I have a more troubled relationship.
Iβd rather be hiking in the Dolomites in August, rather than the Southern Alps.
Or thatβs what I always thought, until a road trip around the South Island in the winter of 2025, which changed my mind completely.
II donβt ski, or snowboard, or do any snow sports at all, but I have been enjoying going on winter walks in snowy and icy landscapes.
I wanted to share a recent winter road trip itinerary, in case itβs useful for getting ideas for where to go and what to do. Iβll try to add in as much practical information as possible along the way.
This is by no means the only winter itinerary you can do in New Zealand, but I hope itβs a good starting point if youβre looking into your own winter trip.
A few things I found handy during this winter road trip
My Black Diamond microspikes (I have the Black Diamond Access Spikes) came in handy on walks in Aoraki/Mount Cook, and have been great for other winter walks in Tongariro National Park as well.
I have the Rab Electron Pro puffer jacket which kept me warm when it was below zero. One warm, insulated jacket like that one works for both outdoorsy activities and walking around town.
I have the Patagonia Marsupial fleece and really came to love it on this trip β it kept me warm, and the pockets are perfect for stashing things on winter walks (like gloves, when I got moving and warmed up).
A warm woollen beanie and warm gloves were also essential (I use fingerless gloves so I can use my camera more easily, and that was sometimes a little chilly).
My two-week winter road trip itinerary
Day 1: Fly into Christchurch, pick up a rental car, and head to Maruia Hot Springs
Day 2: Head to Punakaiki on the West Coast for a night
Day 3-5: Walk the Paparoa Track, one of New Zealandβs Great Walks
Day 6: A hike near Hokitika, then a drive through Arthurβs Pass
Day 7: Drive to Aoraki/Mount Cook to hike and spend a night
Day 8-10: Drive to Queenstown, spend a few days visiting wineries and eating
Day 11: Visit Milford Sound
Day 12: An overnight hike on the Hollyford Track
Day 13: A day hike to Lake Marian
Day 14: Fly home from Queenstown
Day 1: A hot spring retreat
Day 2: The West Coast
A beautiful place to stay on the West Coast β the outdoor bath made this the perfect winter stay
We spent one night near Fox River on the West Coast, before starting the Paparoa Track from Punakaiki.
The West Coast is warmer than the east coast in winter, and the weather seems to be more settled there in the colder months.
At least, we were lucky to have almost perfect weather there.
FEATURED STAY
Pahautane Ridge
A beautiful studio room overlooking the ocean.
Day 3: Walking the Paparoa Track, one of New Zealandβs Great Walks
Although a multi-day hike probably isnβt on most South Island winter itineraries, I wanted to walk the Paparoa as itβs one of the Great Walks still accessible during winter β and one of the last ones left for me to do.
Iβm also always up for any excuse to visit the West Coast of the South Island. Even if youβre not aiming for the Paparoa, I would recommend spending two nights along this coast. Explore the coastal walks and enjoy the sunsets.
The Paparoa track was epic, with calm weather and stunning views of the mountain ranges.
I loved finishing up in Punakaiki, where we managed to squeeze in a walk on the Truman Track down to a rugged beach.
At the end of the day we drove down to Hokitika, where we stayed in a lovely old-fashioned farm house, and went for a drink at a local pub.
Day 6: Hiking near Hokitika
We opted to hike up to Mount Brown hut, but there are other walks close by. The Hokitika Gorge is a lovely walk which is much more suitable for most people.
After the hike, we headed back to the east coast via Arthurβs Pass, where I couldnβt resist stopping for another walk.
Day 7: Winter hiking in Aoraki/Mount Cook
Queenstown wineries and eating
If you like winter sports, winter is best time to go to Queenstown.
There are several ski fields to choose from around Queenstown and Wanaka, most of which have incredible views of the lakes and mountains.
Queenstown comes alive with skiers and snowboarders keen to hurtle down the many different slopes around town. Thereβs a strong apres ski vibe, and even though the weather is cold, spirits are high.
I grew up without snow so I donβt have any of these activities in my repertoire
Wine tasting is a great activity at any time of year in New Zealand.
In winter, the vines are pruned back and smaller cellar doors are closed, but you can still visit welcoming wineries near Queenstown and on Waiheke Island.
Cooler weather can be a great reason to book a winery lunch and settle into an afternoon of indulgence.
Day 11: Visit Milford Sound
Day 12: An overnight hike on the Hollyford Track
Some hikes, like the Tongariro Alpine Crossing and the Milford Track, are impassable in winter due to snow and avalanche risk. If you have specific hikes on your New Zealand bucket list, check whether they are walkable in the months youβll be visiting.
Day 13: A day hike to Lake Marian
Day 14: Fly home from Queenstown
What to expect from winter in New Zealand
New Zealand winters are nowhere near as harsh as European or North American winters.
It gets cold, but not drastically colder than summer β the coldest daytime temperatures are usually around 6-12 degrees.
That means our lifestyles donβt change massively during winter, either. People still enjoy outdoors activities like hiking and surfing.
However, winter is the low season in New Zealand, so for travellers itβs a very different vibe to summer.
New Zealand in winter is a lot quieter than in summer. This can be both a positive and a negative.
Youβre more likely to have campgrounds, beaches, and walking trails to yourself.
Most locals travel over the Christmas and New Yearβs period, which is when we have our summer holidays. This means visitors can have attractions and accommodation to themselves outside of the peak season.
The downside to this is that some places can feel a little dead in winter. People donβt go out as much, and we donβt down on restaurant terraces, so thereβs less buzz in towns and cities.
It snows in various parts of New Zealand during the winter months of June, July, and August. In the South Island, snowfall is common in mountainous regions during winter, including places like Lake Tekapo and Wanaka.
If youβre into snow sports, the South Island has all sorts of winter activities on offer. Skiing, ski touring, snow boarding, you name it.
a frosty morning in the waipara valley near christchurch
The bad β limited hiking, shorter daylight hours, and a higher chance of bad weather
Instead, Iβm a hiker, and in winter a lot of mountain trails are inaccessible because of snow or avalanche risks. Some trails are only accessible from late November to April.
Winter is also the quietest and cheapest time of year in New Zealand. You can get pretty good deals on activities, and accommodation prices drop down.
Outside of ski towns like Queenstown and Ohakune, winter is a great time to travel New Zealand if you like to have places all to yourself.
As New Zealand is such a long country, with varied terrain, winter temperatures vary widely from the North Island to the South Island.
Key takeaways
Average winter temperatures range from 12 - 16ΛC (53 - 61ΛF)
Pros of New Zealand in winter:
Smaller crowds, better deals on accommodation and activities
Incredible sunrises (that you donβt have to wake up super early for)
Stunning winter scenery and snowy landscapes in the South Island
Cons of New Zealand in winter:
Limited daylight hours for activities
Weather disruptions such as cancelled activities and closed roads are more likely
Some highlights, like the Great Walks, have limited accessibility during winter
How cold does it get in New Zealand in winter?
Average winter temperatures range from 12 - 16ΛC (53 - 61ΛF)
Winter in the North Island can be gloomy, grey and wet.
The weather is usually cool, with a lot of overcast days and rain.
Usually, Auckland in July gets 15 days of rain on average, compared to 6 days of rain in Christchurch. In August one year, we had rain every day in Auckland for three weeks straight.
It never gets too cold in the North Island though β I have been on campervan trips around Wellington and Cape Palliser in late June and was never too cold.
An extra blanket and a hot water bottle were enough to keep me warm. I didnβt need a plug in heater.
The dampness and darkness do mean I spent more of that time reading in my van instead of sitting outside though.
The South Island is much colder than the North in winter.
Winter is actually the dry season in Christchurch and Queenstown. The weather tends to be drier, with more bright, clear, bluebird days, but because the temperatures are colder you do need to pack more gear.
Itβs pretty common for people from the North Island to arrive in Queenstown and immediately go shopping for warmer clothes, because they packed too lightly (I am definitely guilty of this).
Auckland winter temperatures (average high/low): 15Β°/8Β°C
Christchurch winter temperatures (average high/low): 11Β°/1Β°C
Queenstown winter temperatures (average high/low): 8Β°/-1Β°
The further south you go in New Zealand, the colder the temperatures. Thereβs a massive difference between Auckland and Queenstown.
The weather can change a lot throughout the winter season as well. Thereβs not much between New Zealand and Antarctica, so when the wind blows up from the south itβs freezing.
Temperatures can get pretty warm over winter too, if youβre lucky. Northland is sometimes called βthe winterless North,β because on a sunny winterβs day it feels almost as warm as a cool summer day.
One thing that makes New Zealand winter feel colder than it actually is though, is the quality of New Zealand housing. Our homes are infamously cold and often damp β itβs one of the worst things about living here.
Central heating doesnβt exist in New Zealand. Newer homes have heat pumps, but we heat the older ones with plug in electrical heaters. With the cost of energy bills, a lot of people just donβt heat their homes.
Insulation is also lacking in New Zealand, and itβs rare to have double glazing.
All this means weβre used to huddling inside under blankets, with thick jumpers, during winter.
You shouldnβt face much of an issue if staying in hotels and more modern Airbnbs, but if youβre visiting friends or staying in an older house, just be prepared for colder accommodation.
As well as air temperatures, the water in New Zealand gets much colder over winter. In the North Island, the sea temperature can range from around 14 to 18 degrees Celsius (57 to 64 degrees Fahrenheit) in winter.
In the South Island, sea temperatures typically range from about 10 to 14 degrees Celsius (50 to 57 degrees Fahrenheit) in winter.
I surf in a 3/2 wetsuit all year round in Auckland, but in Wellington or the South Island you would need a 4/3 in winter.
If you prefer to avoid crowds and are travelling on a budget, winter is a great time to visit New Zealand. Attractions and accommodation are much quieter, but most adventure activities like bungy jumping, jet boating, or cruising to Milford Sound are still enjoyable in the cold weather.
It can be a lot less stressful travelling in winter compared to summer, as activities and accommodation are rarely booked out.
With accommodation, even though you wonβt need to worry about booking in advance for most places, itβs still worth booking at least one day ahead.
This is because winter can bring reduced operating hours for smaller accommodation providers. If you donβt book and arrive at your destination past 6pm, reception might be closed.
This happened to me when I was travelling around Golden Bay in the middle of winter. I managed to find a room at a pub that was open and serving people into the evening, but the Top 10 holiday park where I originally wanted to stay was closed by the time I arrived after dark.
Still, this is a small niggle and for me doesnβt outweigh the flexibility of not having to book every single night in advance.
Itβs also worth noting that weather in New Zealand is so unpredictable that even if you visit in summer, you can be hit with heavy rain and gale force winds.
So pack warm, make sure your preferred activities are open or accessible during winter, and take advantage of cheap mid year flights to New Zealand.
Thanks for reading this far! If youβre thinking about visiting New Zealand in winter, I hope this helped clarify things for you.
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