Welcome to the hotel edit; my guide to the very best hotels and places to stay in Wellington

A plane flying low over Wellington harbour

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A quick overview: Wellington’s best hotels

These are all places I have stayed, with the exception of The Bolton, where I have only done a room tour. I would recommend any of these, but for location, value for money, and a unique experience, both The Intrepid and The Cobbler are excellent choices.

My favourite place to stay —The Intrepid Hotel
A close second — The Cobbler Hotel
Fabulous location by the waterfront and Te Papa — QT Wellington
Excellent independent hotel —The Bolton
Cheap, cheerful, and practical —Astelia Apart Hotel

Arriving in Wellington is always a one-two beat; in the first moments, whether it’s driving down State Highway 1 and reaching the stretch of road alongside the coast, with the city laid out in front of me and the late afternoon light filtering down through the hills, or sailing into the fishhook-shaped harbour on the ferry, I’m reminded how beautiful Wellington is, and how much I love it there.

Then, not too long after that, I’m plunged into the narrow city centre streets trying to keep my cool as I make tight turns into tighter car parks. On my last visit, I busted the wing mirror of my car in less than 12 hours.

You are likely a better driver than I am, but even so, Wellington is a city where it’s easier to ditch the car and explore on foot.

The centre of Wellington is compact and, crucially, flat – unlike most of the rest of the city.

That makes it easy to walk around the key central areas of the city. A car is handy to go further afield, but you’re unlikely to want to drive in the narrow, busy central streets; if you have a rental vehicle, the easiest thing to do is leave it parked (either valet or in a parking building, I don’t know of any hotels that provide free parking) while you explore on foot.

I haven’t stayed in every hotel in Wellington, but I have passed through the city many times; I have driven back and forth to the South Island more times than I can count, and I’m always happy to pass through the capital.

As with all of my guides, this isn’t supposed to be the most comprehensive list of hotels in Wellington, but a curated selection of independent or otherwise unique places to stay.

Te Aro and Cuba Street

The city suburb where you’re likely to spend the most time is Te Aro – this is where you’ll find Cuba Street and intersecting Ghuznee Street, the heart of Wellington’s creative and culinary scene.

Thanks to its role as a strip of mostly independent businesses, Cuba Mall, between Ghuznee and Dixon Streets, has been permanently closed to traffic since 1969; the beloved Bucket Fountain was installed not long after and has been an iconic Wellington sight ever since.

Although Cuba Street has its fair share of chain retailers, it’s still the most eminently wanderable street in the centre, lined with vintage and second hand shops, record stores, and excellent cafes.

This is my favourite area to stay in Wellington; I love being able to step outside and find superb coffee, pastries, or cocktails within a 10 minute walk from my hotel.

The Intrepid Hotel

LOCALLY OWNED | SMALL (18 ROOMS)

One of the most well-located hotels in Wellington, The Intrepid sits on Ghuznee Street, a stone’s throw from Cuba Street and all of the shops, bars, and restaurants this part of the city has to offer.

The grand, tiled entrance also leads to Puffin wine bar, so at first it seems as if you’re straying into a speakeasy rather than a hotel. The small reception desk abuts the wine shop part of Puffin, and the red-lit lift is just next to a glass door stenciled ‘bar,’ which leads to the velvet booths and colourful decor of Puffin – well worth a visit at some point during your stay.

Upstairs, the decor of the 18 rooms embraces the heritage of the building with industrial chic; pared back furniture, exposed brick and dark curtains. Whether you find the rooms gloomy or moody depends on perspective. I found the darker ambiance peaceful after the busyness of Cuba Street.

Unusually for a hotel room, The Intrepid has a separate toilet and a shower. Also unusual – the snacks and drinks in the room are all complimentary. Other delightful touches include the free laundry room, the ice machine, and filter coffee provided in the morning (although I do admit, with so many excellent coffee places within a few minutes walking distance, it wasn’t entirely necessary). There’s also an all day coffee and tea station on each floor, with sparkling water taps alongside. You may not love having to dip out of the room for refreshments, but robes are provided, so this didn’t bother me.

My room, 303, was on the top floor, and despite looking out over the street I wasn’t bothered at all by street noise (although rooms on lower levels may hear a little revelry on weekends).

In a nod to the history of the building as the former office and warehouse of Cadbury Chocolate, the turndown service includes a chocolate on your pillow (although they did show up asking to do this at 4.30pm on a sunny summer day, which felt a little odd – I just took the chocolate at the door) and a small room service card with an update on the weather for the next day.

Check out is a leisurely 11am; somehow, an hour more than the standard 10am feels much more relaxed, and I appreciated a later start on a Sunday morning, when shops along Cuba Street only started opening mid morning.

Of course, the hotel is not without some drawbacks; reception closes at 5pm; I didn’t love the shower curtain; and the blankets on the bed were on the thinner side. Balanced against every other part of my stay, though, these points are negligible. I loved checking into The Intrepid and would happily do so again.

I paid for my stay at The Intrepid Hotel.

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The Cobbler

LOCALLY OWNED | INDEPENDENT | SMALL (12 ROOMS)

Located in Hannah’s Laneway, which runs through the old Hannah’s shoe factory, The Cobbler is perfectly located in the centre of Wellington. There’s no reception; check in details arrive in a text message before your stay (signed off from the owners, local couple Mady and Jarrod), with a code for the entrance door and your room.

This tripped me up for a second or two when I first arrived, but once I got the hang of the code locks, it was much easier than having a key.

My room (room 6, an Eva Studio) was surprisingly spacious, with the bathroom separated from the main living area via a small antechamber and a view out over the laneway (although there are variations to the layout of each room).

The kitchen is very well stocked and you could easily cook a meal there. A few small snacks and complimentary drinks were welcome upon arrival. Bathrobes, the linen duvet cover, and brushed brass finishings added up to an industrial chic, but still very cosy, room.

The hotel lacks some of the other amenities you might normally find in city accommodation. There’s no gym, parking, or on-site restaurant.

With so many cafes in a five minute walking radius, this didn’t bother me (try Swimsuit on Dixon Street, a mere minute away). As for parking, I left my vehicle in the Hope Gibbons parking building a five minute walk away ($47 for around 24 hours) but there are other Wilson carparks in the vicinity as well.

I paid for my stay in The Cobbler Hotel.

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QT Wellington

The QT Wellington shuns the standard bland hotel aesthetic and instead goes for a more maximalist look, from patterned wallpapers to gilt lamps and chairs. Indeed, art is a defining feature of QT Wellington; bold, colourful artworks are everywhere you look, from the reception area to every corner of your room (and some of the feature lamps and other furnishings have price tags attached, just in case you want to take one home).

This is possibly the most unique hotel in Wellington.

After the lavish furnishings, my favourite feature of the QT’s rooms is the generously sized bathtubs. The location is also excellent, across the road from Te Papa and an easy stroll to the best of Cuba Street and Te Aro.

Cost is the main drawback to the QT. Although the hotel has excellent amenities, including a pool, the standard room cost is high compared to other properties in town. A view of the harbour comes at a premium; standard rooms overlook a city street if you’re lucky, and a wall if you’re not.

I also don’t particularly love the in-house breakfast restaurant, and would much prefer to head to one of Wellington’s cafes instead.

I have stayed at the QT Wellington on paid-for work trips and on famil visits.

See more reviews

Astelia Apartment Hotel

NEW ZEALAND OWNED
If you’re not bothered about decor, and just want a clean place to sleep and catch up on laundry, the Astelia Apartment Hotel is a convenient choice, located almost perfectly midway between the Cable Car and downtown Wellington, and Cuba Street with all of its restaurants.

My room, a queen one bedroom apartment, was a little worn but clean and spacious enough, with a well set up kitchen and living area with a sofa. The main factor in choosing this hotel was for the washing machine and dryer in the room (I had just arrived from the South Island with a backpack full of grubby hiking clothes).

It was ideal for a one-night stay, and although prices fluctuate according to demand, it can be great value for money – I paid $175 for one night, and studio rooms can cost as little as $140 a night.

If you have a rental car, as I did, this hotel is located opposite a parking building, so it’s easy enough to park overnight (the downside to that is that some of the rooms are looking straight at the parking building — that was indeed my view from the sofa).

Rates from $140 for a studio. I paid for my stay in the Astelia Apartment Hotel.

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Wellington Central and Thorndon

Wellington Central, just to the north of Te Aro, is bisected by Lambton Quay, one of the city’s main streets and a hub for banking, retail, and business.

Then there’s Thorndon, home to The Beehive parliamentary buildings and high rise office blocks.

There’s no shortage of lunch places and bars catering to Wellington’s public service office workers in these areas, but weekends can be quiet compared to the vibrant Cuba Street.

The Bolton

LOCALLY OWNED | INDEPENDENT

Family owned and operated, The Bolton is Wellington’s largest independent hotel.

A bedroom with gold and navy cushions on the bed at a hotel in Wellington

The tall building sits only a stone’s throw from the Beehive in the grey area of Thorndon; fortunately the hotel rises high enough that many rooms have beautiful views of the lush Thorndon Hills, instead of just the concrete jungle around its feet.

This is a proper hotel, with 136 rooms ranging from studios to apartment style suites, and all the bells and whistles, including 24 hour reception and good value valet parking.

The smallest studio rooms on the lower levels are simple and straightforward, with nothing particularly trendy or even interesting in their decor, but they still come with a bathrobe and slippers and enough space for a small work desk. The value for money is good, with prices for these ‘sleep and go’ studios starting from around $200.

More luxurious studios and suites sit higher up in the tall hotel, with large windows to maximise sweeping views. The suites have rich gold and navy blue colour schemes, bathtubs, and full kitchens, with prices from around $400 for a one-bedroom.

In a unique quirk, The Bolton features plenty of artwork from Rita Angus, one of New Zealand’s most prominent painters, who also happened to be the aunt of managing director Warwick Angus.

I visited The Bolton for a room tour (I didn’t stay overnight).

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Oriental Parade and Wellington’s waterfront

A busy arterial road separates the waterfront from the rest of the city centre, but once you’re on the water side, there is easy walking from the hulking TSB arena on the northern end, to Oriental Bay. In between is Te Papa Tongarewa, in a prime spot overlooking the water, the Solace in the Wind statue (also known as the naked man), and the line of pretty boat sheds along Oriental Parade. It’s a beautiful stroll, in any weather; I love looking for the poetry and quotes of the Writers Walk.

Ohtel

The mid-century inspired retro rooms of Ohtel Wellington offer a much more unique stay than the generic chain hotels.

Set right on Oriental Parade, this boutique hotel is ideal for exploring the waterfront. Head to Beach Babylon on Oriental Bay for brunch, or go in the opposite direction to explore the writer’s walk around the water.

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The Kapiti Coast

If you want to stay close to Wellington, but outside the busyness of the centre, the Kapiti Coast is a great pit stop on your way to or from the city. It’s only a 40-minute drive to Wellington’s centre, but the quiet beaches, steep hills, and sunsets feel like a world away.

The stretch of coastline between Paekakariki and Paraparaumu is also a good base for exploring Kapiti Island, walking the Escarpment Track, or visiting 50-50 restaurant (which I have yet to visit, but would love to check out).

The Escarpment Domes

REGENERATIVE TOURISM | LOCALLY OWNED

On 8 hectares of retired farmland in Pukerua Bay, a 35 minute drive north of central Wellington, sit the Escarpment Domes. The setting for the domes is incredible, with 180 degree views of the sea and sunsets on clear days.

Getting there is half of the adventure; you’ll need to meet the hosts at a carpark, which itself is reached via a long gravel road and several gates, to be ferried up to the Domes in a 4WD vehicle. That means that once you’re up there, you’re unlikely to leave. Take food, wine, and whatever you need for the night.

I chose the Domes as a place to stay near Paraparaumu, the departure point for the Kapiti Island ferry (the location is also very handy to the Escarpment Track, but I didn’t have time for the walk when I visited). The mission of the Domes, which is to use income from accommodation to fund native forest regeneration and pest control on the land, also appealed strongly.

Staying up on the escarpment was unique, but I would point out that it’s best to see the Escarpment Domes as a camping experience, rather than a glamping one; although the Domes are comfortable, they aren’t luxury by a long shot.

The overall impression I had of the Domes was a vision that has been executed on a budget, and under time constraints. Doors (and possibly flooring?) have clearly been salvaged, and are a little rough around the edges; the path to my Dome was laid out with old coffee sacks; the area around the seats in front of the Dome was thick with weeds.

To be clear, these aren’t criticisms necessarily. I just think it’s important to arrive for your stay knowing what to expect.

If comfort and luxury is a priority for you, I wouldn’t recommend a stay here.

If you don’t mind a composting toilet (that was a little confronting even for me, and I’m no stranger to composting toilets) the possibility of insects making their way inside, and a generally rustic environment, then you’ll most likely enjoy the sunset views, outdoor bath, and regenerative tourism ethos.

Thank you for reading

I hope my recommendations helped you select a special place to stay in Wellington.

All words (and typos and other errors) are my own, based on my own travels.

During my time on the road, I’ve found many wonderful places — galleries, restaurants, viewpoints and more. I’m sure you’ll find others. If there’s somewhere you think I should know about, contact me at hello@petrinadarrah.com, so I can share with other travellers in future work.

If you’re disappointed with one of my recommendations, I’d love to know that too; places change, or close, so I appreciate updated information.

Thank you for supporting my work – you being here lets me keep doing what I love to do, which is explore New Zealand and share it with others. So a heartfelt thanks for reading.