Where to eat in Wellington
All of the coffee stops, sandwich shops, and restaurants in Wellington I have visited, and would visit again
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Every time I visit Wellington, I have a new list of places to try; coffee shops, bakeries, restaurants, take away joints. I can never seem to reach the end of the list, but I have a lot of fun trying.
I should caveat that I am an avid oat flat white drinker, a vegetarian, and often a solo diner. I’m a connoisseur of nothing, but I like good food and wine. I give extra points to places that are owner operated, locally owned, and interested in sustainability in some way. My favourite places are usually small and cosy, in ways that remind of Europe.
Here’s a list of the best places to eat in Wellington, according to my very unserious research.
Coffee
Sketchbook Coffee
Stopping by on a sunny weekend morning, the line was long and the sprawling seating on the steps outside was already full of people catching up over their favorite brew. But, as the friendly baristas assured the people ahead of me in the queue, they are doyens when it comes to making coffee.
The light-filled, Scandi-inspired space feels relaxed for somewhere so popular, and the team didn’t miss a beat. The coffee was amazing, and there’s sparkling water on tap. A perfectly upbeat place for your morning brew.
I liked it even more for the fact that it’s Independently owned, the brainchild of four baristas who like to mix things up. Unlike most cafes, which have just one coffee roastery supplying their beans, Sketchbook showcases a new roastery every two months.
Swimsuit Coffee
Owned and operated by an award-winning local barista, Tait Burge, Swimsuit’s Dixon Street cafe (there are now three Swimsuit joints around the city) is the ideal place for people watching. Grab a seat in the window, or at one of the tables on the pavement, and enjoy the urban bustle.
Customs
A cafe by Wellington-founded Coffee Supreme, Customs is a core part of the capital's coffee scene. Although Coffee Supreme has been owned by an investment company since 2022, I still love Customs, which has a simple minimalist set up inside, with a large shared table and bar in the window, and wood accents warmed up by the sun streaming in. Outside, stools squat on the pavement around tables just big enough for coffee cups and the odd slice of toast. The coffee is, of course, impeccable.
West Two Espresso
Pour and Twist
Cafes, casual eats and quick bites
Aurora Argentinian Bakery
A family-owned Argentinian Bakery just off busy Manners Street, Aurora’s shelves are stacked with empanadas, media lunas, and a range of other pastries, including vegan ones. Everything is made from scratch, true to tradition. I loved the dulce de leche media luna, a flaky golden sugar hit perfect for fuelling a walk around Wellington.
Fred’s Sandwiches
With bright orange walls and a very simple proposition – just really good sandwiches – Fred’s is one of Cuba Street’s most popular lunch stops. Using bread from local icons Shelly Bay Baker and Wellington Sourdough, filled with straightforward ingredients, the sandwiches knock it out of the park every time.
Amuse Snack Bar
The open kitchen means you can watch the baker at work, kneading dough and sifting flour from one of the many sacks that are stacked in corners. The decor is eclectic vintage and colourful, with a european flavour and ample space – there’s even a sunny little patio out the back.
As the name suggests, this little bakery/cafe/bar fills a gap so many other establishments leave open when they close at 2-3pm. Where does one go for a mid afternoon cup of coffee and a sweet treat? To Amuse, where the coffee is superb, thanks to owner Dori Raphael’s years of working as a barista in both London and Wellington.
Shelly Bay Baker
The organic, sourdough bread at Shelly Bay Baker is made with freshly stoneground flour. It’s some of the best in the city. Then there are the sweet treats; the salted caramel cookie is something of a Wellington icon.
Belen Plant Bakery
Starting out as a market stall in 2021, plant-based Belen now has four locations in central Wellington. Owners Mica and Chris describe themselves as passionate about people, pastry and the planet. With that in mind, they set out to reimagine baked-goods with the best plant-based alternatives. The result is a whole range of vegan goodies, from doughnuts to savoury pastries. I’m not usually a doughnut person, but on my last visit tried the Birthday Cake Donut, filled with custard and cake batter, coated in vanilla glaze and cake crumbs, then topped with buttercream and sprinkles. It was a creamy delicious confection, and as far as I could tell, indistinguishable from non-vegan counterparts.
Salut Pies
Taste of Home
Out of the postage-stamp sized Taste of Home on Vivian Street come some of the city’s best hand-pulled noodles. The Sichuan style Dan Dan noodles are a highlight, not to mention house-made chilli oil.
Floraditas
Styled after grand European cafes, Floraditas on Cuba Street has high ceilings, dark wood finishings, and abundant natural light. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, I have so far only tried the breakfast offerings; there is the usual line up of avocado on toast, poached eggs, and french toast, but there’s also pork and chicken liver terrine, and smoked fish rillettes.
Dinner
Wellington has some of the best dining in the country. Restaurants tend to be smaller scale, intimate affairs – it pays to book tables in advance, especially for weekend evenings.
Graze Wine Bar
INDEPENDENTLY OWNED
Run by a husband and wife duo, Max and Stina, Graze is located in an old butcher’s shop in Kelburn. It’s worth the trek from the city centre (it’s a 10 minute walk from the top of the Cable Car) to visit this pescatarian restaurant focused on ethical ingredients and low food waste.
The exterior still has signage from the shop’s former life; it doesn’t look like one of the best places to eat in Wellington. Inside is colourful and homey, with jars of pickled things lining shelves and decor that is a cheerful mix of upcycled treasures.
The blackboard menu lists sharing dishes like tomato and mozzarella tart with oyster mushrooms, basil and beans pierogi honey roasted pumpkin with macadamia and fig. There’s much much more to each dish than the menu suggests, so each one is a small surprise when it arrives, delivered with an explanation of where each component comes from (herbs from the neighborhood, flour from Shelly Bay Baker, fish from a local fisherman).
In an innovative move that I wish more restaurants would adopt, you can order half serves for each dish – ideal if you’re a solo diner, like me.
The space is small; 22 seats. Book in advance, to make sure you don’t miss out. Sitting at the chef’s bar is a treat, as you get a front row view of Max and his team crafting each dish.
Margot is hidden away down a side street in Newtown, but still easy to spot, with striking red window awning and a warm glow spilling through the glass. Inside is small and cosy, 26 seats arranged around small tables, a couple of booths, and the bar.
The seasonal menu changes often, but expect share plates like whole globe artichoke with lemon and tarragon butter, or stracciatella with broad beans and peas. I ordered the bread and the portion was enormous; that alone is enough to make me a fan, but the fresh flavours and plentiful vegetarian options made me a complete convert.
Dark, moody greens and low lighting set the tone inside Koji; this is a cool restaurant, which they underline with the music, a deep and thumping bass that feels like it would be better suited to a basement DJ gig than dinner.
You may need to raise your voice a little, and reserve some patience for the hit and miss service (on my visit, we ordered drinks twice with different people and still had to chase down the order with a third person after not having received anything 30 minutes later), but it’s still worthwhile visiting; the food is excellent.
The savoury yellow curry doughnut was a standout, as was the charcoal roasted broccoli with macadamia cream. For dessert, the red date doughnut with miso butterscotch was a hit.
Food aside, one of the main reasons to visit Koji is if you’re in town on a Monday night, when it’s the only restaurant on this list to stay open.
Damascus
Owned and operated by a Syrian-Argentinian husband and wife team, Hasan and Flora, Damascus brings traditional Syrian recipes to Wellington. Everything is made from scratch in-house, from the bread to the hummus and many mezze dishes.
The restaurant interior has plenty of rustic charm; service is warm and friendly. Between the homey atmosphere and fresh flavours, Damascus is a delightful place to escape from the central Wellington bustle for a while.
Cocktails and wine bars
Puffin
Duck in off Ghuznee Street, through the reception area of The Intrepid Hotel, and you’ll find the surprisingly spacious Puffin, a wine bar with a focus on organic and minimal intervention wines. Green velvet booths, dangling chandeliers, and colourful, warm lighting sets the scene;
Hanging Ditch
The Library
The dark wooden walls of The Library are lined with books and paintings, above deep armchairs and worn leather couches. Settle into a quiet, lamp-lit corner and indulge in a decadent dessert cocktail, fine and rare wines, or a New Zealand whisky.
Thank you for reading
All words (and typos and other errors) are my own, based on my own travels.
During my time on the road, I’ve found many wonderful places — galleries, restaurants, viewpoints and more. I’m sure you’ll find others. If there’s somewhere you think I should know about, contact me at hello@petrinadarrah.com, so I can share with other travellers in future work.
If you’re disappointed with one of my recommendations, I’d love to know that too; places change, or close, so I appreciate updated information.
Thank you for supporting my work – you being here lets me keep doing what I love to do, which is explore New Zealand and share it with others. So a heartfelt thanks for reading.
If you’ve enjoyed my recommendations, you might want to check these out as well before you go:
AUTHOR BIO
I’m a freelance travel writer from New Zealand with bylines in National Geographic Travel, Conde Nast Traveler, Travel + Leisure and more.
I’ve travelled up and down beautiful Aotearoa and I love sharing my recommendations for the best places to visit in New Zealand.
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